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Virginia Woolf’s house, Gertrude Stein’s flat – feminist pilgrimages are a great way to connect with history. So when Vera Groskop said girls were boring, her mother decided it was time for her first trip

By Viv Groskop

Viv Groskop and her daughter Vera, beside a statue of Queen Alexandra in London. Photograph: Linda Nylind

Despite my best efforts, my three-year-old daughter Vera hasn’t exactly been celebrating her girlhood of late. In fact, influenced by her six-year-old brother, she can frequently be heard muttering, “Girls are boring. I want to do boys’ things.” I can see her point. Her brother’s life is full of Star Wars, pirates, football and other action-packed phenomena. Vera gets Hello Kitty. She clearly finds this unsatisfying, and the situation is coming to a head. “I am not a girl, Mummy, I am a boy,” she told me recently. “My name is Peter.”

But it’s good to be a girl, I tell her. Being a girl is fun. There are women’s successes to be celebrated. There is joy in the female condition. How can I prove this though? In our home city, London, there is just not that much physical evidence of women’s greatness. The Alison Lapper statue in Trafalgar Square was taken down in 2007. There are nine male statues in Parliament Square – and no female ones. London’s first public statue of a black woman, Bronze Woman by Aleix Barbat, in Stockwell Memorial Garden, did not appear until 2008. Germaine Greer has frequently complained that women are underrepresented in public monuments, noting that one of the only recent sculptures of a woman is of the actor Diana Dors at the Shaw Ridge leisure complex in Swindon. Now, I like Diana Dors. But this is pathetic.

I was not about to frogmarch Vera to Swindon, but I loved the idea of an adventure, exploring women’s hidden imprint on our streets. So I decided it was time for her first feminist pilgrimage. My mother-in-law reeled: “That poor child.” But I knew how to sell it to Vera. “Would you like to come and find out what lots of important ladies did, and then we’ll have cake?” “Yes,” she replied seriously. “I would like cake.”

Rachel Kolsky, a London tourist guide, has run women’s walking tours since 2005. “They open people’s eyes to the hidden history of an area,” she says. “There is a great women’s story on every corner.” Vera and I set off on a three-hour walk around the East End of London, starting at the Royal London Hospital, the focal point of the Wonderful Women of Whitechapel and Spitalfields Tour. Here, Kolsky tells a story about Eva Luckes, the famous hospital matron, whose successes included the containment of a typhoid epidemic. The hospital’s inner courtyard has a magnificent statue of Queen Alexandra, who was instrumental in bringing a new treatment for tuberculosis to the hospital. “Look at that strong, proud lady, Vera!” I say. “You said I could have cake,” she says. “I’m cold.”

Then Vera starts to cry, bringing our adventure to a sudden end. This is the problem with Kolsky’s brilliant London tours: in order to showcase women’s buried history, they cover a lot of ground. Great for an adult, but slightly too ambitious for a three-year-old….Continue reading

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